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The basic model of shoemaking is the first thing you need to master. When we are making shoes, the pattern construction of almost every shoe type is based on this basic pattern.
It can be seen that mastering the current basic mode is very important for making beautiful and comfortable shoes.
What are the basic shoe types for shoemaking?
The basic shoe shape is an exact replica of the last you used to make your shoes.
Now, the basic pattern of the shoe is very important when making shoes, because you will use this basic pattern to develop all other shoe components (upper, lining). Now, if you want to know the importance of basic patterns, shoes manufacturer.
Round toe last
It contains certain points and lines and a long-lasting margin.
First-Basic-Shoe Pattern
Lasting allowance for shoemaking
This is an additional material (fabric or leather-depending on the shoe you are making) that we need to add to the feather line of the last in order to attach this margin to the insole.
This will allow us to close the upper around the last during the shoemaking process.
If you want to know more, you can check this article "Continuing Allowance in the Shoe Industry"
How do we make the basic patterns of shoes in shoemaking.
1. Cover the outside of the shoe last with textured paper
2. Draw the important lines and points needed for the composition of different shoe types, and apply the design of the shoes we want to make (there are two methods for composition)
3. Paste the textured paper pattern on the cardboard
4. Cut out the same pattern from paper A4.
Why do I need to use A4 paper here? We need it to check our basic pattern. I have written an article about the use of paper in shoemaking, so if you want to know more about it, please check this article
"Save money on leather and make shoes with paper patterns [video tutorial]"
5. Put it on the shoe last to check its correctness, and there is a feather line on the inside of the shoe last
6. Transfer all the corrected paper patterns to the new cardboard
2 How to make the sole pattern
There are two main methods for making shoe patterns. They all work well, but one of them has almost no advantage. First, let us describe these two methods of making shoe patterns.
Make the first basic pattern and the second basic pattern
This is how I make shoes and teach courses.
-We made the first basic mode, which is exactly the mode you will learn in the following tutorials.
-Then we made another basic pattern following the same steps used when making the first basic pattern, but we also drew the design of the shoe we want to make.
-This is the second basic mode.
-Using the second basic pattern, we created all the parts and patterns of the shoe design.
Flat ballet shoes in different designs
Only make one basic pattern
-Follow the same steps we used to make the first basic pattern to make the basic pattern (see the tutorial later)
-Before removing the masking paper pattern, draw the shoe design first
-Use this basic pattern in conjunction with the shoe design to develop all the parts and details of the shoe
Oxford shoe design
Advantages of making the first and second basic patterns
If you use my method, you will save your time and work smarter.
why?
When you make the first basic pattern without applying any shoe design, you will check it with paper and get a 100% correct pattern.
Then you can design any shoe type (of course, use the same last), except ballet and high heels.
If you still don’t have any lasts and don’t know the correct last size to check, please be sure to read this article
"How to measure your foot size [order the right shoe last]"
If you are not sure which shoe last type is needed to make the specific shoe last you want to make, please check this article on different shoe last types for use in the shoe industry "Shoe Last [The Definitive Guide 2019]"
You can stick the masking tape pattern with the shoe design on this copy of the checked shoe pattern-the first basic pattern, you must already have the correct shoe pattern, no matter what it is: Derby shoes, Oxford shoes, soft Leather shoes, boots, etc.
Sneakers-shoes
If you will use the second method, you will draw the shoe design and use it to make this specific shoe type.
Then, you will need to make all the other shoe shapes you want to use the same last again and again.
Draw shoe pattern
If you want to learn about the types of perfect lasts needed to make 10 different shoes, please check this article "Learn the perfect lasts for making shoes [1 shoe last = 10 shoe shapes] ”
So please watch this tutorial to learn how to make basic shoe shapes and work smartly to save you time in making shoes.
Now, as a good example of my method, learn how it works in shoemaking, such as Oxford shoes.
How to use the basic mode to speed up the shoemaking process
Today I will show you a quick and easy mode of making a solution. This new method will save you time dealing with shoe patterns, because you will focus on one main part-the basic pattern.
Usually in all of my online shoemaking courses, we make the basic patterns and all the other parts needed. This is how it should work, but today I will teach you how to focus all modes in a new way.
How do you usually construct shoe shapes?
Using the example of this oxford shoe, you will see and understand how each step of making this pattern works
oxfrod's shoe design
1. The first basic pattern
Shoe Type-Construction 002
This is a clean pattern, without your design, just to make it fit the shoe last perfectly.
2. Complete the basic mode.
Basic shoe type
After checking the first basic pattern, you can transfer the shoe design there.
3. Add a folded toe cap pattern
Now, shoemaking has the correct folding method. If you want to learn "How to fold the upper?! Shoemaking steps", please be sure to read this article.
Toe shoe type
4. Patterns with folded and underlined stitching on the upper
Vamp pattern
5. The pattern of underlined seams and folds
Dormitory shoe type
6. The pattern on the back part is folded.
If you want to learn how to create a neat back seam, be sure to check out this article "What a shoemaker does to achieve a perfect back seam"
Oxford shoe back pattern
7. Shoe tongue pattern with underline stitching
Shoe pattern on the tongue
A new model construction method
1 The first basic mode (just like the previous method)
Shoe Type-Construction 002
2 Complete basic mode
Basic shoe type
3. Competitive basic pattern, all seam allowances for every detail are on top.
New basic model construction
For this complete basic pattern, you will add lines for every detail (toe cap, upper, etc.), all necessary seam allowances. All the design, details and parts of the model will be concentrated in one place.
After marking all the seam allowances for each shoe component on the basic pattern, you will get a complete map and a guide for each component required for the shoe.
in conclusion
The advantage of this method is that when you create a pattern with specific details, you don't need to think about how many millimeters you need to add to the seam allowance every time and adjust it every time you use the compass.
In this way, you will save time and work faster. This is especially useful if you need to make many different patterns in a short period of time.
On the other hand, this method can be very messy and not so clean. Concentrating too many lines, designs, and seam allowances for each part will require your full attention. So use this mode very carefully, here is a quick tip.
In order to avoid confusion with so many marks on the basic pattern, mark them with different colors, such as blue fold marks, red marks underlines, etc.
Original link: Making Shoes with Basic Pattern